A Journey of a Lifetime: Myanmar, A Mystery of Yangon and the Outskirts

Lucklita Theng (Lita)
5 min readJul 9, 2019

November 4 — November 8

My journey into Myanmar was an unexpected twist of strange pagodas, vintage roads, and buildings, beautiful mundane lifestyle in the city and in the countryside, a thriving startup economy, and tales of internal religious conflicts.

Photo by Harish Shivaraman on Unsplash

November 4 — November 8

The MV World Odyssey came through the Irrawaddy river making waves for its tiny companions of fishing boats scattered across the muddy water. The sun was up high as immigration took place inside the ship’s main hall Kaisersaal. I went and took my passport then walked passed the ship’s library or the Lili Marleen heading straight for the Berlin restaurant for some breakfast.

The sun shining in, the waves getting calmer than previous days…and the temperate getting warmer. I sit thinking about what to expect in Yangon, munching on my cereal.

Yangon

Finally, the ship docked in the Myanmar Industrial Port in Yangon and we were able to disembark! However, it turned out we have docked at least an hour away from Yangon city, so we had to take an arranged bus to the city since there was scarcely any transportation available in the rural area we were located.

The port looked discarded. Aside from the MV World Odyssey, there were barely any signs of port activities. There was nothing in the surrounding area outside the port itself. We were in the middle of nowhere.

After disembarkation, we left for Yangon on a shuttle bus. It seemed like Semester At Sea paid a government-approved tour agency to take care of all its activities in Myanmar.

We stopped at the iconic old Yangon train station, and walked from there to Bogyoke Aung San Market where I bought some Pomelo, it felt good to have access to sweet Pomelos again, felt close to home. Then we went to Sule Pagoda. Once I entered the area of the pagoda, a weird sense of silence and calmness washed over me — just for a bit. I am not exaggerating, I say this because the pagoda is literally in the middle of a buzzing city center so the ability to be a source of silence and tranquility was impressive.

Afterward, I was roaming around the Kandawgyi Lake to see the sunset before heading to Shwedagon. It was true that the sun touched the surface of the tranquil waters of the lake before setting. It felt so warm and simply breath-taking.

Shwedagon Pagoda was a bit further away from Yangon downtown. It was more beautiful at night than I expected. There were people worshipping everywhere, bright lights reflected on the golden stupas. People would go around the stupas worshipping different Buddha statues all over the place.

It was an amazing sight, especially that one corner filled with young monks sitting with shiny clean-shaved heads like marbles in rows, chanting and learning the Buddhist scriptures in the candle-lit area.

Yangon was a mystery no more. I was transported to a limbo period where there was a clash of colonial architecture, golden pagoda stupas, and beautiful rooftop sky bars.

Here are some links related to what I want to talk about for Myanmar Architectures.

Yangon’s Architecture is a Window into Myanmar’s Rocky Past

Colonial Buildings in Yangon — Renown Travel

Coconuts.co’s Yangon’s Magnificant Architecture Both Old and New

The sight of men drinking hot milk tea sitting on tiny tiny plastic chairs by the pavements of the main roads, and the sight of worn out colorful houses lining up the roads were all vital in pushing me into the French colonial era where I am the odd tourist touring the area, discovering and rediscovering the hidden beauty in everyday goings and comings of the people.

The Outskirts

I loved the city but I have to say…my adventures in the countryside triumphs it all!

Grabbing the motorbike guy going 80 miles/hr down roads with green luscious trees bending in from both sides of the roads, creating a game of flickering lights with the sun… It was absolutely blissful.

I went to many strange beautiful pagodas.

The pagoda that I had to take many steps to get to the top, where it was a contrast from the likes of Shwedagon. So quiet — only the songs of the wind flew around. There was even a veranda for people to sit and meditate.

The pagoda that I had to take a boat to get to. The one that lay in the middle of a rushing river.

Or that pagoda in a quiet village that was a python sanctuary for decades — where the pythons only drink milk and sleep all day.

Links to what I want to talk about for Myanmar’s Religions.

World Atlas’s Religious Beliefs in Myanmar

Cartomission's Myanmar Cities and Religions

The way I feel about Myanmar was shaped by the people I met there as well.

I remember the cute face of a girl that went “Excuse me… you..going to Dala village?” “I can take you. I want to practice my English and show you my town” and off we went to Dala and continued our motorcycle adventure.

The tech people, start-up people and the financial institution people of Yangon that I met during my visit to the start-up incubator Phandeeyar and the Yoma Bank Group. From that, I learned of the economic and financial status of the growing country.

Link to Myanmar’s Startup Scene:

Tech Collective Sea’s An Overview of Myanmar’s Startup Scene

Akar, the Muslim guy who shared his bitter past about his mother’s village being bullied out of existence by neighboring Buddhist villages. As someone who was born in a Buddhist family, I always pride ourselves in being peaceful and choosing the path of nonviolence. When I heard this I was disappointed but also forced to be humbled and learn the truth of censorship and blind worshipping.

Links to Things I Want To Talk About For Myanmar’s Religious Conflict and Abit of Politics:

Myanmar’s Country Profile In Terms of Politics and Economics on The Economist Intelligence

I discovered Buddhists, Hindus, and Muslims all in the same area or city. I began to see the possibility of religion-caused violence the more I hear tiny stories like the one Akar mentioned. Whether it was all true or not, these stories generate discrimination and hate and when fueled enough could turnt into a gruesome internal conflict…just like the one they currently have to face with.

The military rule, censorship of news, Rohingya crisis, and more!

Links to Information Related to Rohingya Crisis:

Did UN Self Censorship Aggravate Rohingya Crisis in Myanmar 2018

Independent.co.uk’s Rohingya’s Crisis Myanmar Army Fake Photos of Muslims Killing Buddhists

All in all, it was a learning experience for me to be open minded and interested in what’s going on in smaller countries and also my neighbors and fellow ASEAN countries because it is important for me to assess the development in neighboring countries to perhaps aid my own country’s development.

Myanmar — Yangon, No Longer My Mystery!

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Lucklita Theng (Lita)

Habits & Personal Growth | Thoughts on Tech and People | Occasional Epiphanies in My 20s